DMM Dragon CAM review


유투브에서 이 동영상을 보고 '어머~ 이건 사야해!'를 외치고 있었으나, 역시 캠의 지존 블다의 캐머롯과 비교시엔 역부족 ㅡ _ㅡ;

생긴것은 이쁘지만, 역시 마이너의 한계가 따르는지 국내 인터넷 장비점 2곳에서 판매하고 있었고, 가격 또한 만만치 않다.

오케이아웃도어에서 할인쿠폰 먹여서 블다 캐머롯을 기웃거리고 있다.

#6는 이미 내손에 들어왔으니 이제 9개만 더 준비하면 끝!!

그나저나 빙벽 시즌이라 그런지 그리벨 스크류도 자꾸 눈에 들어온다. -_-


아래는 DMM cam review 

Comparative Review At-a-Glance

See more side-by-side comparisons
 This ProductEditors' ChoiceComparison
Product NameDMM Dragon CamBlack Diamond Camalot C4Video video reviewRock Empire Robot Cam
Street PriceVaries $63 - $465Compare at 6 sellersVaries $48 - $70Compare at 12 sellers$40-50
Overall Score
100
0
78
100
0
85
100
0
60
Editors' Awards   Editors' Choice Award   
ProsGood range, lightweight, extendable sling.Great range, bomber, relatively light.Inexpensive, Extendable sling, Somewhat durable
ConsNot cheap, no high clip-in, thinner cam lobes.None.Low Range, Hard to place/clean, Walk, Heavy
Best UsesFree climbing.Trad climbing, big wall climbing.Trad Climbing
Date ReviewedNov 08, 2010Apr 18, 2012Nov 18, 2010
Weighted MetricsDMM Dragon CamBlack Diamond Camalot C4Rock Empire Robot Cam
Flared Cracks
10
0
7
10
0
8
10
0
5
Horizontal Cracks
10
0
8
10
0
8
10
0
6
Tight Placements
10
0
8
10
0
8
10
0
6
Walking
10
0
8
10
0
8
10
0
5
Durability
10
0
8
10
0
10
10
0
8
Aid Climbing
10
0
6
10
0
9
10
0
6
Free Climbing
10
0
8
10
0
8
10
0
6
Compactness Lightweight
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
6
Product SpecsDMM Dragon CamBlack Diamond Camalot C4Rock Empire Robot Cam
Range
Tested Size1.47-2.5 = 1.031.45-2.5= 1.052.01-2.78 = .77
Weight (SuperTopo Scale)5.1oz(#4=#2 size)5.5oz (#2)6.2oz (#4 =#2 size)
Head Width
Length (from Top To Bottom Of Clip Point)5in6.8in6.41in
Sling Length5in/9in3.75in3.5in/6.5in
Stem Width Above Trigger
Single Or U Stem?SingleSingleU-stem
Single Or Double Axle?DoubleDoubleSingle
Extendable Sling?yesnoyes
Sling MaterialDyneema (ultraskinny)NylonDyneema
High Clip In For Aid?noYesyes
Cam Stops?YesYesYes
Strength14kn8-14kn15kn

Likes Dragon Cams are Wales-based DMM’s offering in the double axle cam design. They compliment BD Camalots from #.5-4 and are even colored the same. They are bomber and easy to place, with a slightly shorter stem than Camalots. Despite the shorter stem, the units have a longer sling and rack at just about he same length as Camalots. Their double axle design gives them a wider range than most cams, making it more likely that you’ll find the right piece when you’re gripped. The biggest standout feature of the Dragon Cams is the nice long extendable Dyneema sling. It’s like having a quickdraw already on your cam, making extending placements simple and quick. While Dragon Cams are only 5-10 percent lighter than Camalots, you save even more weight if, like us, you bring fewer quickdraws and extra carabiners to mitigate rope drag.Instead of a thumb loop, DMM has developed a beefy metal end piece with two loops that the sling is threaded through. DMM touts that they developed the metal end piece because the 8mm extendable Dyneema sling could cut through a cable thumb loop. (The Re-sling Black Diamond Camalot C4 and C3 page has a photo essay on why Camalots use the slings and cables they do.)Despite the lack of a thumb loop, we found that the Dragon Cams were easy to place. The large metal end piece on the stem has ridges and is ergonomically designed to aid in ease of handling. The stem is slightly shorter than on other cams that we tested, though we didn’t find this to be a problem in any way (actually appreciated it when packing them in our pack), and the Dragon Cams Rack at about the same length as BD’s Camalots. Dragon Cams are slightly lighter than Camalots owing to the shorter stem and the design of the forged cam lobes that are narrow in the middle.DislikesWe really like the extendable sling for free climbing, but the lack of the thumb loop makes these not appropriate for aid climbing. Every placement leaves you about three inches lower than you would be with a Camalot which is not okay on a serious big wall. For us, we love Yosemite big walls so this is a HUGE deal. For most climbers that don't aid climb, it probably doesn't matter. The downside to a cam with an extendable slings and no thumb loop is they take up more space on the rack, which makes finding your right piece harder. In addition, they are pain in the butt for the follower to clean. It usually requires two hands to "de-extend" the sling. Unless the follower is on a stance, it is hard to do this. Usually the only option is to clip the cam to your harness or gear sling fully extended. This means the cams will hang low and really swing around and get in the way. Best ApplicationThese cams are best suited for free climbing, especially alpine climbing where you want to move light and fast. We could not think of a better cam for the Sierra. The extendable sling makes it easy to add a little length to your placements to cut down on walking and to help out with wandering pitches.ValueThese guys are a little pricey. Ranging from $75-$80 per cam, they are definitely not a bargain. They are roughly 20 percent more expensive than a Black Diamond Camalot C4. This is not a big deal if buying one cam, but becomes hundreds of dollars if buying a few sets.

 Chris McNamara and Robert Beno 
by peter | 2012/12/03 15:15 | Equipment | 트랙백(9170) | 덧글(0)
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